Sergio Molino is a well-known name in the Piedmontese wine world, and far beyond. As a brilliant yet rather timid winemaker, however, he prefers to stay in the background and is not easily recognized as such. Sergio works as an oenologist for numerous wineries in Piedmont, other parts of Italy, and even in France.
His expertise and passion for winemaking led him to resume bottling the 2.5-hectare vineyard in the Bricco Rocca cru in La Morra, which has been in his family for generations. Under the name E. Molino – the E is a tribute to his father, Ernesto – Sergio produces about 6,000 bottles annually, divided between Barbera Superiore, Nebbiolo, and Barolo, and in good years, a Barolo Riserva.
Sergio has an almost obsessive approach to winemaking. He wants to understand every aspect, both in the vineyard and in the cellar, and control it wherever possible. It is not without reason that, next to his vineyard in Annunziata, situated between Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, and La Morra, he has a laboratory where he conducts research on bacteria and enzymes and cultivates new vine clones.
His ultimate goal is simple: to bring the intrinsic characteristics of the grape into the glass as purely as possible and to lose as little quality as possible during vinification and aging. That may sound like a cliché, but in practice, it means that he concerns himself with every detail: from the optimal ripeness of the grapes and the timing of the harvest to transport, sorting, and pressing. In the cellar, it then comes down to countless decisions: how much oxidation to allow, which material to use for aging, how long to age, whether to fine or filter or not, and even applying separate vinifications within the same vineyard, depending on location and conditions.
Sergio is an engaging man who, once in conversation, will take you right into the vineyard and talk for hours about wine and winemaking. At the same time, he can sometimes be unreachable for days, even when you urgently need him for an upcoming shipment. Perhaps these are the whims of a master, but they are part of a winemaker who is completely absorbed in his craft.
Fortunately, they still exist: winemakers who not only make wine but want to fathom their craft down to the smallest detail. Sergio Molino is one of them.
